2010 marks 92 year in the BTAA’s journey of determination, excitement and innovation. From a visionary small beginning the Association has become the pro-active and responsible voice for the Luggage, Leathergoods and Accessories industry here in the UK.

It was founded as the Saddlery, Harness and General Leathergoods Manufacturers Association back on 16^th October 1918. It was licensed by the Board of Trade as the official association for these trades, limited by guarantee. Its objectives were the watching over and protection of the general interests of members in the various trades incorporated within the Association.   Since its inception there have always been willing members who have given their time, talents, and money towards the success of the Association. Amongst the founders were such names as J B Brookes & Co (later known as Antler Luggage and Brooks Saddles) and Pearsons of London.

During the first World War leather was in heavy demand for fabricating saddler and harness for horses, valises and kit bags, footwear and a wide range of military equipment. Under government legislation, manufacturers had been forced to work together to produce the Leathergoods required for the war.  With the rapid development of mechanical transport immediately prior to and during the war there was a rapid decline in horse drawn traffic which resulted, in turn, in a rapid fall in demand for all kinds of saddler, harness and accessories. Thus, the makers of these products, in order to keep their factories running and their labour forces intact, were impelled to switch their production away from saddler and harness to consumer goods. An example of this changeover was that of a well-known London harness maker who changed to the production of small Leathergoods and who was probably the first maker of leather watch straps in the UK.

As the standard of living improved people began to travel more, demanding bags of all types, saddles for their horses and, later, larger trunks for overseas travel.

Small Leathergoods, made in Walsall were factored by jobbing salesmen moving about the Midland towns in a pony and trap. In one instance when his horse died, a Leathergoods manufacturer bought himself a new safety bicycle fitted with a wooden saddle and two willow pannier baskets. After one week’s journey he returned to his warehouse demanding that someone should make a leather saddle, and so was born one of the great names in cycle saddle business, Brooks.

In 1923 after years after seven more firms joined the group and new Articles of Association were formulated under the title of the National Leathergoods and Saddlery Manufacturers’ Association. Now manufacturers of diaries, fancy Leathergoods, handbags and jewellery case makers and later Relevation Luggage became active members.

In 1923 there were talks of trade fairs in the air to stimulate sales, so they agreed to exhibit collectively at the British Empire Exhibition at Wembley in 1924. As early as this the trade journal ‘Leathergoods’ was being used by Council as a mouthpiece for the Association’s policies.

Discussions on wage scales proved difficult at this time with differing trades being included in the overall policy and special committees. The Association was growing and work towards offering advice on Export Services began.

By mid thirties the situation was worsening. In one year imports of handbags and small Leathergoods were worth over £1million whilst export sales only amounted to half that figure. Foreign handbags were flooding the market at .50p to £1. A top level conference was held under the Chairman Sir Oswald Moseley Bart, Chancellor of the Duchy of Lancaster. Buyers from the large stores in London and the counties were present but all criticised the British handbag industry for poor design and high cost. An expert designer was called upon Professor Jowett, and companies began to recruit specialist designers for their own products. Thanks to scholarships organised by Cordwainers College and finance from the London County, scholarships were established and prizes offered to students producing the best craftsmanship in the various types of product.

The wage award made in 1930 were 1/3 (6.25p) per hour for skilled men with over four years’ service and 7 1/2d (3.12p) per hour for female operators with three years’ service. All worked at least a 48 hour week.

At this time new synthetic materials were beginning to invade the Leathergoods trades. Handbags and luggage were appearing made in what was widely called “leathercloth”. This was in fact a cotton sheet with a coat of Nitrocellulose or Polyvinyl emulsion. Lightweight luggage in this material was popular with the public who could not afford heavier Leathergoods.

In 1936 Hilter began is pogrom against the Jews. Many Jewish Leathergoods manufacturers fled to England and set up small factory units which produced low cost items of good quality. They brought with them their knowledge and expertise in Leathergoods design and production and provided a strong competitive impetus to the home industry. Most of them joined the Association and became valuable members, many of them in due time holding high Officer positions in the Association.

After the war, early in 1947 when the trade returned to its normal production, shortages of leather and other raw materials forced firms to work on a quota system. Retailers were allotted so many items per period and much ill will was generated by everyone who thought they should have had more than the other. By 1949 Purchase Tax was causing problems and the Association fought many battles of words with civil servants, trying to obtain relief from this iniquitous tax. Uplift too affected those firms, dealing direct with the retail trade and finally some firms found they could only keep their production lines going by a ‘sale or return’ system. All this caused problems many of which were taken up nationally by the Association Officers who devoted much of their own time to them.

The participation of its members at trade fairs had always been a special feature of the Association’s activities. Early in the post war years a group of members exhibited at the British Industries Fair, first at Olympia and subsequently, much against some members’ wishes, at the new Earl’s Court complex. With the closing down of the British Industries Fair, the Association’s Fairs Committee was faced with the task of finding alternative accommodation. After much deliberation it decided, as an experiment, to mount a specialist Leathergoods show in hotel bedrooms. The first of these was held at the Kensington Palace Hotel, London and the detailed organisation was undertaken by Benn Bros, the publishers of ‘Leathergoods’. On the Association’s behalf.

After a few years the show was transferred to the Mount Royal Hotel, London and the management was left to the good offices of the Leather Institute. Pressure was again mounting for the open-fronted stand type of exhibition and in response a further move was made, this time to the Royal Horticultural Halls, Victoria London. However, after a few years the popularity of this venue declined especially with buyers who felt fairs devoted to one trade were too time consuming. This continuing problem of finding a suitable venue for the industry’s annual trade fair was solved with the opening in 1976, of the purpose-built National Exhibition Centre in Birmingham which in February each year houses a comprehensive display of Leathergoods, jewellery, cutlery, glass, china and many other giftware items attracting buyers in large number from home and overseas.

In 1955 the title of the Association was changed for the third time to the British Leathergoods Manfuacturers’ Association and the deeds of Association were duly revised. 

In 1978 the B.L.M.A changed again to British Luggage and Leathergoods Association and became part of the British Jewellery, Giftware and Finishing Federation in Birmingham which enabled the Association to offer more benefits and services to members and discounts at trade fairs both in the UK and overseas.

In 2005 we changed our name for the final time to British Travelgoods and Accessories Association to encompass more Accessories into the Association and this is where we are today.